Saturday, June 19, 2021

Sheer bliss

 Let me start by saying that I love the Ruby Bra pattern with a passion. For me, it is the perfect combination of functionality and practicality. Perfect coverage and I LOVE fold over elastic (FOE).  Like really love the look of edges lined in FOE.  Looking at the last Ruby I made, I could use a little more room, but I don't really think I needed to go up a cup size. Thus the tinkering described below.

For these adjustments, I started with a band size 36 and BCD of 5.0.  I wanted to preserve the neckline, thus I didn't want to go up a size.  My assessment was that I could use a little added volume in the lower cup. That being said, I know how to add volume to a 2 piece cup, but this is a 4 piece with a 3 piece lower cup. I decided to add a couple mm to the inside seams of the lower cup pieces and just a touch of height, mostly on the center bottom piece. Otherwise, the rest of the pieces were the same.  

Isn't that FOE gorgeous?

I had previously purchased a Liberty Lawn kit from Bra builders.  I had some leftover sheer cup lining, powernet and microduoplex (current sentiment towards microduoplex... ugh).  A few months ago I ordered some extra findings and FOE, planning to use the leftovers for some good. I had planned on doing the whole thing in sheer cup lining, but I ended up not having enough. I decided to use the microduoplex for the band and I must say, it looks pretty good, despite the fights we have.  The tissue paper hack was my best bet at dealing with the fussy fabric.

I'm finding that lately, I've been questioning the wires I've been using.  I found what I'm pretty sure are some strapless bra wires in a size 46.  I went through my wire collection and held them up to the cradle, and these were the best I could find to fit the wireline. They were perfect. I did order some longer size 46 wires that should be here this week. I'm finding all my patterns require longer wires, so it'll be nice to have some on hand.  

Overall, I'm really happy with the changes I made.  The fit is fantastic. These little changes will work for non-stretch fabrics, which I have more of. I think I'll definitely be making a few more sheer bras for the summer!

Fabric & Findings: Bra Builders in Plum Pudding

Pattern: The Ruby Full Band Bra from  Bra Maker Supply

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