Thursday, August 13, 2020

Neon takeover!

 Hello, there! It's been a while.

I've been sewing up a storm, but with everything going on, I've not been documenting things as I would like.  Maybe I'll do a roundup of my lock-down sewing.  Or maybe I won't.  But I'd like to.

Now for the main event.  The neon Ruby Bra!  I love this patter and it is one of my most worn bras in my drawer.  What could make it better? Make it a longline.  Full disclosure, I've never before sewn a longline bra.  That's not a thing that would stop me though. Funny enough, a few days after I finished this bra, my Diamond Bra pattern 

I got this lovely neon green lace on AliExpress. It had hearts and neon, yes please!  The lace has a nice scalloped edge and is a non-stretch lace.  Since it is Braugust over on Instagram, I decided to poll the masses to see if I should use the navy or white. The responses were almost completely split! I decided to go with my original idea of using the Navy, but I kind of want to order more to use with white, because I was pretty split myself. I should have ordered more, because I barely had enough for this bra.

This bra was definitely an experiment. I decided to go for it. I've seen others make longline bras and I totally watched the video from LizSews about making a bra longline.  When I cut my pieces, I tried to keep some continuity in the direction of the lace. I'd say I mostly succeeded there.

I split the bridge in half and added back in a seam allowance, because I wasn't sure how to keep the angle of lines where the front frame meets the band.  Once I split the bridge, I was able to just draw a line straight down. That mostly worked. The bridge is a slight bit wider than I would like at the top, but totally wearable. 

I used foam for the cups and cut them to the pattern size. I cut the lace with the scalloped edge just above the edge of the upper cup pattern piece, so the scallops would show over the foam edge.  No fold over elastic for these cups.  I did attach some to the center, but it is poorly attached, so I'll take it off at some point and replace it. Or maybe I'll just tack the lace down. The FOE is a bit distracting.

I wanted to make sure the scalloped lace at the bottom remained visible. In order to do that, I cut the lining to be the same length as the lace, and attached the elastic to it.  The band elastic is lightly tacked to the lace, which allows for a snug fit and the lace to be seen in its entirety.  

I added channeling for boning to the sides and the center seams to add some stability. I'm waiting for my boning to arrive so I can sew it in to complete the bra. Even without it, I'm pretty happy that it doesn't roll up for move around a whole lot.

For the back, I used 2 black hook & eye clasps which I sewed together.  I saw Emerald Erin use this method in her bra a week series, and it was perfect. I didn't have a 6 hook clasp, so sewing 2 of them together resulted in the perfect size.  

The only thing I'm not quite unhappy about was that I couldn't use the lace for the back. It would have looked so cute with the lace on the back! I cut it out, but quickly realized that if I was going to be able to have any stretch on the band, it wouldn't work.  Luckily, I'd cut out lace and powernet, so down to just the powernet it was.  

Overall, I'm pretty happy with the bra. I think if I were to make this again, I'd narrow the bridge and use stretch lace for an overall lace effect.  For my first real pattern mutation, I'd call it a success.

Fabric: Ali Express (lace) and the Bra Makery (lining and powernet) and Sweet Cups (foam)
Findings: Tailor Made Shop and The Bra Makery
Pattern: The Ruby Full Band Bra from  Bra Maker Supply